Emilia-Romagna
Bologna
Every north–south train passes through Bologna and most travellers change here without leaving the platform. That is a mistake: the food is the best in Italy and the old centre is fifteen minutes' walk from the concourse.
Arriving
Stations
Bologna Centrale
High-speed platforms are underground, level -3, and it is a genuine seven-minute walk from the surface. Do not cut your connection fine.
From the airport
The Marconi Express monorail runs from the airport to Centrale in seven minutes. Not pass-valid.
Onward
Connections
| To | Fastest | Operator | Reservation | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Florence | 37m | Frecciarossa | €13 | 3 per hour |
| Milan | 1h 05m | Frecciarossa | €13 | 3 per hour |
| Venice | 1h 25m | Frecciarossa | €13 | Hourly |
| Rome | 2h 05m | Frecciarossa | €13 | 2 per hour |
Bologna's regional spokes — Modena, Parma, Ravenna, Ferrara — are all reservation-free. One travel day can cover three of them.
See
Worth your time
Portici
Forty kilometres of covered arcade, now a UNESCO site. It rains and you stay dry.
Santo Stefano
Seven interlocking churches around a medieval courtyard.
Archiginnasio anatomical theatre
A carved wooden dissection room from 1637.
Torre Prendiparte
Fewer stairs and fewer people than the leaning Asinelli tower.
Eat
What to order
Tagliatelle al ragù
The actual dish. Never spaghetti, never called bolognese here.
Mercato di Mezzo
Stalls and counters in the old market lanes off Piazza Maggiore.
Tortellini in brodo
Winter food, in broth, and the local test of a kitchen.
Day trips
Where the trains go from here
Modena
20 minutes regional. Balsamic, Ferrari, and a Romanesque cathedral.
Ravenna
70 minutes regional. Byzantine mosaics with no equal in western Europe.
Parma
One hour regional. Ham, cheese, and a very good opera house.
Book ahead
Tickets and tours in Bologna
The sights below sell timed entry that genuinely runs out. Booking links are affiliate links.
Bologna food walk
Mortadella, parmigiano, tortellini and a pasta workshop, all within the porticoes.
Check availabilityBookshelf
Read on the way to Bologna
Three books that make the window, and the city at the end of it, more interesting. Links are Amazon affiliate links and cost you nothing extra.
The Name of the Rose
Umberto Eco
Bologna's own professor, and the best medieval novel there is.
Find a copyBologna: Italy's Best-Kept Culinary Secret
Andrew Cotto
A food-first portrait of the city under the porticoes.
Find a copyMore titles on the full city bookshelf or the Italian bookshelf.