Emilia-Romagna

Bologna

Every north–south train passes through Bologna and most travellers change here without leaving the platform. That is a mistake: the food is the best in Italy and the old centre is fifteen minutes' walk from the concourse.

Arriving

Stations

Bologna Centrale

High-speed platforms are underground, level -3, and it is a genuine seven-minute walk from the surface. Do not cut your connection fine.

From the airport

The Marconi Express monorail runs from the airport to Centrale in seven minutes. Not pass-valid.

Onward

Connections

ToFastestOperatorReservationFrequency
Florence37mFrecciarossa€133 per hour
Milan1h 05mFrecciarossa€133 per hour
Venice1h 25mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Rome2h 05mFrecciarossa€132 per hour

Bologna's regional spokes — Modena, Parma, Ravenna, Ferrara — are all reservation-free. One travel day can cover three of them.

See

Worth your time

  • Portici

    Forty kilometres of covered arcade, now a UNESCO site. It rains and you stay dry.

  • Santo Stefano

    Seven interlocking churches around a medieval courtyard.

  • Archiginnasio anatomical theatre

    A carved wooden dissection room from 1637.

  • Torre Prendiparte

    Fewer stairs and fewer people than the leaning Asinelli tower.

Eat

What to order

  • Tagliatelle al ragù

    The actual dish. Never spaghetti, never called bolognese here.

  • Mercato di Mezzo

    Stalls and counters in the old market lanes off Piazza Maggiore.

  • Tortellini in brodo

    Winter food, in broth, and the local test of a kitchen.

Day trips

Where the trains go from here

Modena

20 minutes regional. Balsamic, Ferrari, and a Romanesque cathedral.

Ravenna

70 minutes regional. Byzantine mosaics with no equal in western Europe.

Parma

One hour regional. Ham, cheese, and a very good opera house.

Book ahead

Tickets and tours in Bologna

The sights below sell timed entry that genuinely runs out. Booking links are affiliate links.

FoodFrom €70

Bologna food walk

Mortadella, parmigiano, tortellini and a pasta workshop, all within the porticoes.

Check availability

Bookshelf

Read on the way to Bologna

Three books that make the window, and the city at the end of it, more interesting. Links are Amazon affiliate links and cost you nothing extra.

The Name of the Rose

Umberto Eco

Bologna's own professor, and the best medieval novel there is.

Find a copy

Pasta Grannies

Vicky Bennison

Tortellini, tagliatelle and where the shapes came from.

Find a copy

Bologna: Italy's Best-Kept Culinary Secret

Andrew Cotto

A food-first portrait of the city under the porticoes.

Find a copy

More titles on the full city bookshelf or the Italian bookshelf.