Campania

Naples

An hour and ten minutes from Rome and an entirely different country. Naples is also the interchange for Pompeii, Herculaneum, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast — none of which are on the national network.

Arriving

Stations

Napoli Centrale

All Frecce and Intercity. The Circumvesuviana platforms are downstairs under the name Napoli Garibaldi.

Napoli Afragola

A Zaha Hadid box out in the suburbs. Fast interchange, useless for the city.

From the airport

Capodichino is fifteen minutes from Centrale on the Alibus. No rail link, no pass relevance.

Onward

Connections

ToFastestOperatorReservationFrequency
Rome1h 10mFrecciarossa€132 per hour
Salerno35mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Florence2h 45mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Bari3h 20mIntercity€35 per day
Reggio Calabria4h 20mFrecciarossa€134 per day

Naples to Bari on an Intercity costs one travel day and a €3 reservation. The same crossing on a Freccia costs €13. Take the Intercity.

See

Worth your time

  • Museo Archeologico Nazionale

    Everything good that was dug out of Pompeii is here, not there. Go before the site, not after.

  • Napoli Sotterranea

    Greek cisterns and wartime shelters under the old centre.

  • Cappella Sansevero

    The Veiled Christ. Book ahead; the room holds very few people.

  • Spaccanapoli

    The straight cut through the old city. Walk it end to end.

Eat

What to order

  • Pizza in Via dei Tribunali

    Take a number and wait. Twenty minutes, €6, better than anything at home.

  • Sfogliatella riccia

    Eat it hot from the tray, from a bakery, before ten in the morning.

  • Friggitoria

    Fried everything in a paper cone. The proper Neapolitan street lunch.

Day trips

Where the trains go from here

Pompeii

Circumvesuviana to Pompei Scavi, 35 minutes. A separate company — the pass is not valid, but tickets are about €3.

Herculaneum

Smaller, better preserved, half the crowds of Pompeii.

Salerno and the Amalfi coast

35 minutes by Frecciarossa to Salerno, then the ferry along the coast.

Caserta

The Bourbon palace, 40 minutes on a regional train, pass valid.

Book ahead

Tickets and tours in Naples

The sights below sell timed entry that genuinely runs out. Booking links are affiliate links.

Day tripFrom €45

Pompeii guided entry

The site is enormous and unlabelled. A guide is the difference between ruins and a city.

Check availability
LandmarkFrom €12

Naples underground

Greek cisterns, Roman streets and wartime shelters directly under the old centre.

Check availability

Bookshelf

Read on the way to Naples

Three books that make the window, and the city at the end of it, more interesting. Links are Amazon affiliate links and cost you nothing extra.

My Brilliant Friend

Elena Ferrante

The best possible preparation for arriving at Napoli Centrale.

Find a copy

Naples '44

Norman Lewis

A wartime diary that explains the city's improvisational genius.

Find a copy

Pompeii: The Life of a Roman Town

Mary Beard

Read it on the Circumvesuviana and the site stops being rubble.

Find a copy

More titles on the full city bookshelf or the Italian bookshelf.