Campania
Naples
An hour and ten minutes from Rome and an entirely different country. Naples is also the interchange for Pompeii, Herculaneum, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast — none of which are on the national network.
Arriving
Stations
Napoli Centrale
All Frecce and Intercity. The Circumvesuviana platforms are downstairs under the name Napoli Garibaldi.
Napoli Afragola
A Zaha Hadid box out in the suburbs. Fast interchange, useless for the city.
From the airport
Capodichino is fifteen minutes from Centrale on the Alibus. No rail link, no pass relevance.
Onward
Connections
| To | Fastest | Operator | Reservation | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rome | 1h 10m | Frecciarossa | €13 | 2 per hour |
| Salerno | 35m | Frecciarossa | €13 | Hourly |
| Florence | 2h 45m | Frecciarossa | €13 | Hourly |
| Bari | 3h 20m | Intercity | €3 | 5 per day |
| Reggio Calabria | 4h 20m | Frecciarossa | €13 | 4 per day |
Naples to Bari on an Intercity costs one travel day and a €3 reservation. The same crossing on a Freccia costs €13. Take the Intercity.
See
Worth your time
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Everything good that was dug out of Pompeii is here, not there. Go before the site, not after.
Napoli Sotterranea
Greek cisterns and wartime shelters under the old centre.
Cappella Sansevero
The Veiled Christ. Book ahead; the room holds very few people.
Spaccanapoli
The straight cut through the old city. Walk it end to end.
Eat
What to order
Pizza in Via dei Tribunali
Take a number and wait. Twenty minutes, €6, better than anything at home.
Sfogliatella riccia
Eat it hot from the tray, from a bakery, before ten in the morning.
Friggitoria
Fried everything in a paper cone. The proper Neapolitan street lunch.
Day trips
Where the trains go from here
Pompeii
Circumvesuviana to Pompei Scavi, 35 minutes. A separate company — the pass is not valid, but tickets are about €3.
Herculaneum
Smaller, better preserved, half the crowds of Pompeii.
Salerno and the Amalfi coast
35 minutes by Frecciarossa to Salerno, then the ferry along the coast.
Caserta
The Bourbon palace, 40 minutes on a regional train, pass valid.
Book ahead
Tickets and tours in Naples
The sights below sell timed entry that genuinely runs out. Booking links are affiliate links.
Pompeii guided entry
The site is enormous and unlabelled. A guide is the difference between ruins and a city.
Check availabilityNaples underground
Greek cisterns, Roman streets and wartime shelters directly under the old centre.
Check availabilityBookshelf
Read on the way to Naples
Three books that make the window, and the city at the end of it, more interesting. Links are Amazon affiliate links and cost you nothing extra.
My Brilliant Friend
Elena Ferrante
The best possible preparation for arriving at Napoli Centrale.
Find a copyPompeii: The Life of a Roman Town
Mary Beard
Read it on the Circumvesuviana and the site stops being rubble.
Find a copyMore titles on the full city bookshelf or the Italian bookshelf.