A Venetian canal at dawn with moored gondolas and pastel palazzi

Veneto

Venice

Venice has two stations with confusingly similar names and only one of them is on the island. Trains cross the lagoon causeway into Santa Lucia; Mestre is on the mainland and a further ten minutes away.

Arriving

Stations

Venezia Santa Lucia

On the island. Walk out of the doors and the Grand Canal is in front of you. This is the one you want.

Venezia Mestre

Mainland interchange. Cheaper hotels, and every train stops here — but budget ten minutes and a second ticket to reach the island.

From the airport

Marco Polo has no rail link. The ATVO bus to Piazzale Roma is 20 minutes; the Alilaguna boat is an hour and much more pleasant. Treviso airport connects by bus to Mestre.

Onward

Connections

ToFastestOperatorReservationFrequency
Florence2h 05mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Milan2h 13mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Rome3h 15mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Verona1h 10mFrecciarossa€13Hourly
Bologna1h 25mFrecciarossa€13Hourly

Take the regional to Verona or Padua rather than the Freccia: same travel day, no reservation fee, and only half an hour slower.

See

Worth your time

  • Basilica di San Marco

    Free to enter, small charge for the Pala d'Oro and the loggia. Book a slot to skip the line.

  • Scuola Grande di San Rocco

    A ceiling of Tintorettos and hardly anyone in the room.

  • Vaporetto line 1

    The whole Grand Canal for the price of a transport ticket. Not pass-valid — it is a boat.

  • Torcello and Burano

    Half a day in the northern lagoon; the mosaics on Torcello are older than the city.

Eat

What to order

  • Cicchetti bars around Rialto

    Small plates and an ombra of wine, standing at the bar.

  • Rialto fish market

    Mornings only, closed Sundays and Mondays.

  • Anywhere ten minutes from San Marco

    The price of a meal halves for every bridge you cross away from the piazza.

Day trips

Where the trains go from here

Verona

70 minutes on a Frecciarossa, or 1h 25m regional with no reservation fee.

Padua

25 minutes regional. The Scrovegni Chapel is worth the trip on its own.

Vicenza

45 minutes regional, a town built almost entirely by Palladio.

Book ahead

Tickets and tours in Venice

The sights below sell timed entry that genuinely runs out. Booking links are affiliate links.

LandmarkFrom €32

Doge's Palace and the Bridge of Sighs

Skip-the-line entry to the palace, prisons and the covered bridge between them.

Check availability
LandmarkFrom €14

St Mark's Basilica timed entry

A booked slot turns a ninety-minute queue into a five-minute walk-in.

Check availability
Day tripFrom €30

Murano, Burano and Torcello boat tour

Half a day in the northern lagoon, including the Torcello mosaics most visitors skip.

Check availability

Bookshelf

Read on the way to Venice

Three books that make the window, and the city at the end of it, more interesting. Links are Amazon affiliate links and cost you nothing extra.

Venice: Pure City

Peter Ackroyd

A biography of the lagoon rather than a guidebook. Ideal for the causeway approach.

Find a copy

The City of Falling Angels

John Berendt

Modern Venice, the Fenice fire and the people who actually live there.

Find a copy

Death in Venice

Thomas Mann

Short enough for Milan–Venice, atmospheric enough to change the arrival.

Find a copy

More titles on the full city bookshelf or the Italian bookshelf.